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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/20/2009, 11:08:54 AM durch Illstudio |
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I'm new here and submitting my first pics for approval. Looking through my collection
I'm weeding out the candidates for possible submission.
I was wondering what the rule (if any) there is on "blown out" highlights.
Would this pic be OK?
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Nachricht bearbeitet um 06/21/2009, 00:50:51 AM durch Neddog |
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In my opinion, the blown highlights in the background are fine, but the subject herself is too shadowed and underexposed. In particular, she's got too much harsh lighting on one side of her. I would have used strobes or other lighting in order light up the subject and allow more even exposure across the entire image. |
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Olympus E-3, Olympus E-510, Olympus E-P1 Pen, Zuiko 50-200mm...
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/21/2009, 09:43:14 AM durch Illstudio |
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Thanks. I see what you mean although Im partial to stark contrasts and like the feeling of sun hitting my subject. I am working on getting a nice fill flash to open the shadows on my newer work. It's hard not getting the subject to look to flat tho...
Thanks for the input. |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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Nachricht bearbeitet um 06/21/2009, 12:14:51 PM durch Neddog |
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Make sure you use your flash(es) off-camera, so that you can control how the shadows fall, and control how they make your model look. For instance you can use short lighting to make your subject appear more slender, or broad lighting to make them appear wider. You can also lessen your DOF to give more appearance of depth.
Your subjects shouldn't look flat unless you shoot the flash straight on.
I generally use a couple few flashes on tripods, first one triggered off a sync cord, the rest set as slaves. When dealing with a human model like this, I'll usually keep the lights close to the subject, with good diffusers on the flash heads. |
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Olympus E-3, Olympus E-510, Olympus E-P1 Pen, Zuiko 50-200mm...
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/21/2009, 14:24:13 PM durch Warrenpricephotography |
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I try to avoid critiquing images that are just as good as anything I do. But... thought I would mention a few distractions ... the blurred leaves in the foreground, the washed out right arm, bright spot on the face. Details are SOOOO important.
The image would probably be rejected for lighting.
Just my opinion.
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Nikon and Panasonic cameras; Nikon and Tokina lenses. The P...
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/21/2009, 14:56:09 PM durch Arielmartin |
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Nothing that can't be fixed. IMHO.
Ariel |
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Sony Alpha 350 - Minolta Flash and Lenses, Nikon D300, Nikon...
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/22/2009, 09:15:02 AM durch Illstudio |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Warrenpricephotography: |
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zitierte Meldung: I try to avoid critiquing images that are just as good as anything I do. But... thought I would mention a few distractions ... the blurred leaves in the foreground, the washed out right arm, bright spot on the face. Details are SOOOO important.
The image would probably be rejected for lighting.
Just my opinion.
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Good to know. It wasnt taken for stock but I need to know all the requirements... |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/22/2009, 09:15:33 AM durch Illstudio |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Arielmartin: |
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zitierte Meldung: Nothing that can't be fixed. IMHO.
Ariel |
Care to explain how to fix it? :) |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/22/2009, 09:20:35 AM durch Illstudio |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Neddog: |
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zitierte Meldung: Make sure you use your flash(es) off-camera, so that you can control how the shadows fall, and control how they make your model look. For instance you can use short lighting to make your subject appear more slender, or broad lighting to make them appear wider. You can also lessen your DOF to give more appearance of depth.
Your subjects shouldn't look flat unless you shoot the flash straight on.
I generally use a couple few flashes on tripods, first one triggered off a sync cord, the rest set as slaves. When dealing with a human model like this, I'll usually keep the lights close to the subject, with good diffusers on the flash heads. |
I have the Evolt 520. I see you have the 510, so what kind of flash equip do you use? I only have the OLYMPUS FL-36 TTL Shoe Mount Flash. For a guy on a tight budget what do you suggest? |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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Nachricht bearbeitet um 06/23/2009, 07:35:33 AM durch Neddog |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Illstudio: |
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| zitierte Meldung: I have the Evolt 520. I see you have the 510, so what kind of flash equip do you use? I only have the OLYMPUS FL-36 TTL Shoe Mount Flash. For a guy on a tight budget what do you suggest? |
For a guy on a tight budget, I would suggest exactly what you're using. :D For half the price of an FL-50 or a similar Nikon/Canon/Sony/Pentax/etc. flash, you can buy twice as many and get nearly twice the light while sacrificing only recycle time. Recycle time of course is a big deal in some cases, so you'll need to justify that to your own particular needs. For most of what I shoot, the 3 seconds to set up between shots is usually sufficient, though I do miss a few here and there.
Actual light output out of two FL-36Rs compared to say one FL-50R for the same price however is far greater, as well as spreading your light out from two sources, giving you more even lighting.
However, make sure you get the FL-36R and not the FL-36, if you're using multiple flashes. You want that built-in slave sensor for your second, third, etc. flashes, or you'll need expensive workarounds to trigger them.
If you're in an area where you can obtain third party flashes though, then definitely go for those to save money (ie, Metz, Vivatar, Sunpak, etc.). The Vivatar series flashes are really good, but the Metz-48 and Metz-58 (sort of equivalent to the FL-36 and FL-50 respectively) are very popular on Olympus because they come with Olympus TTL compatible versions to mount right on your hotshoe if needed.
Since you already have one flash which is fully compatible with your camera, then you can pretty much use any other kind you can find for secondary flashes though, as long as they have an optical slave sensor built in. You can also buy sensors and triggers separately, but in this day and age I wouldn't bother, since there's so many out there with built-in sensors already.
If you start off with just one or two flashes, then keep it off the camera (on a tripod or lightstand) and use a sync cord (most reliable), optical trigger (cheaper sometimes, less reliable, less mess), or radio trigger (reliable and hassle-free, but expensive) to trigger the first flash, then you can just run the second as a slave. I wouldn't bother keeping one on the hotshoe unless it's a third or fourth flash, in order to avoid the bad shadows you get from that head-on light. If you're shooting mobile at events and such, then I would suggest using a flash bracket so you can keep the flash away from the lens but still have it in a hand-held package.
Whatever setup you use however, just make sure you have some kind of diffusion or bounce system on your flash heads. Bounce of course works best indoors under a low ceiling but is ineffective outdoors or in a large auditorium or something, so a soft diffuser is more practical for general usage. It also allows you to control light and shadow direction a lot easier. Standard retail brands include Gary Fong, Demb Flash Products, Sto-Fen, etc. However, home-made modifiers are easy to make and often more effective. You have to have an idea of what you're doing first though before you make your own. |
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Olympus E-3, Olympus E-510, Olympus E-P1 Pen, Zuiko 50-200mm...
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 26 | Gesamtverkäufe: 5
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/22/2009, 22:21:37 PM durch Illstudio |
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WOW Thanks Neddog.
I recently pickup a Canon rebel Xsi however I dont want to give up on the Olympus line since Ive got the flash and a few lenses. Are there flashes that have the built-in slave sensor that work both with Canon AND Olympus? |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/23/2009, 11:15:38 AM durch Neddog |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Illstudio: |
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zitierte Meldung: WOW Thanks Neddog.
I recently pickup a Canon rebel Xsi however I dont want to give up on the Olympus line since Ive got the flash and a few lenses. Are there flashes that have the built-in slave sensor that work both with Canon AND Olympus? |
Any Canon flash (or other brand) will work with an Olympus camera (or other) using the slave sensor as a wireless remote flash, but only in Manual mode. It's just triggered off by the light of the other flash, so you can trigger it with a hotshoe flash, a corded flash, or even your pop-up flash. :D
You can even use off-brand flashes on your camera wired through a single-contact PC-to-PC sync cable, provided that your triggering voltage is the same (all newer cameras have a lower voltage of under 6V or so, so if you use an older flash that has say a 12V triggering voltage, you could fry your camera). With optical slaves you don't have to worry about this, but if you get a separate remote trigger (ie, like an Infrared or Radio trigger, or a third-party slave sensor) besides what's built into the flash itself, then you have to make sure the voltages match.
You do not however, want to use a dedicated TTL cord (like a Sync cord but with extra contacts enabling you to use your flash remotely with the same functions as on the hotshoe) on anything but the hotshoe flash and camera it was made for. Even if the extra contacts of the TTL cable don't end up being used, they may end up contacting and sending the wrong currents to the wrong place. So if you do want to go corded with an off-brand, make sure you use only a single-contact Sync cable.
Personally, I have no problems with doing away with TTL because I generally only use Manual settings on my flashes anyways; even though I actually use Olympus flashes and have an Olympus compatible TTL ("just in case" I want that capability). So it's not a big deal using the workarounds with off-brand flashes, rather than having direct TTL-enabled, dedicated flashes and triggering systems. |
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Olympus E-3, Olympus E-510, Olympus E-P1 Pen, Zuiko 50-200mm...
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Nachricht geschrieben um 06/25/2009, 11:56:17 AM durch Illstudio |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Neddog: |
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zitierte Meldung: [quote]WOW Thanks Neddog.
I recently pickup a Canon rebel Xsi however I dont want to give up on the Olympus line since Ive got the flash and a few lenses. Are there flashes that have the built-in slave sensor that work both with Canon AND Olympus? |
Any Canon flash (or other brand) will work with an Olympus camera (or other) using the slave sensor as a wireless remote flash, but only in Manual mode. It's just triggered off by the light of the other flash, so you can trigger it with a hotshoe flash, a corded flash, or even your pop-up flash. :D
You can even use off-brand flashes on your camera wired through a single-contact PC-to-PC sync cable, provided that your triggering voltage is the same (all newer cameras have a lower voltage of under 6V or so, so if you use an older flash that has say a 12V triggering voltage, you could fry your camera). With optical slaves you don't have to worry about this, but if you get a separate remote trigger (ie, like an Infrared or Radio trigger, or a third-party slave sensor) besides what's built into the flash itself, then you have to make sure the voltages match.
You do not however, want to use a dedicated TTL cord (like a Sync cord but with extra contacts enabling you to use your flash remotely with the same functions as on the hotshoe) on anything but the hotshoe flash and camera it was made for. Even if the extra contacts of the TTL cable don't end up being used, they may end up contacting and sending the wrong currents to the wrong place. So if you do want to go corded with an off-brand, make sure you use only a single-contact Sync cable.
Personally, I have no problems with doing away with TTL because I generally only use Manual settings on my flashes anyways; even though I actually use Olympus flashes and have an Olympus compatible TTL ("just in case" I want that capability). So it's not a big deal using the workarounds with off-brand flashes, rather than having direct TTL-enabled, dedicated flashes and triggering systems.[/quote]
I ordered a "Phoshot 4 Channel Flash Trigger + 3 Receiver PT-04 V2s" off eBay. They will work with my Olympus F-36 and my older Nikon Sb-24 flashes! Cool. I guess I use them in manual mode? |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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Nachricht geschrieben um 07/03/2009, 09:55:56 AM durch Illstudio |
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Well I did buy the (Chinese) RC flash triggers. There are no instructions.
I tried testing the setuo and the flashes wont trigger. I guess Im at a loss how to use them..
Any ideas?
I have an Olympus E-Volt 520 DSLR, a Nikon SB-24 and an Olympus FL-39. What settings do I put on the flashes and the camera? |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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Nachricht geschrieben um 07/05/2009, 00:38:53 AM durch Neddog |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Illstudio: |
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zitierte Meldung: Well I did buy the (Chinese) RC flash triggers. There are no instructions.
I tried testing the setuo and the flashes wont trigger. I guess Im at a loss how to use them..
Any ideas?
I have an Olympus E-Volt 520 DSLR, a Nikon SB-24 and an Olympus FL-39. What settings do I put on the flashes and the camera? |
You shouldn't need to change any settings on the camera because the camera will read that there's a flash mounted on the hotshoe, and put itself into automatic flash mode. Your flash however should be set to manual, so you can dial in a power setting yourself. You shouldn't need to do anything else. Make sure you have fresh batteries and the power turned on, on both the triggers as well as the flash. ;)
Don't use your E-520's "Remote Flash" function. That's for triggering the FL-36R and FL-50R wireless flashes by using the camera as a commander. It won't work with the older FL-36 non-R model. |
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Olympus E-3, Olympus E-510, Olympus E-P1 Pen, Zuiko 50-200mm...
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 26 | Gesamtverkäufe: 5
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Nachricht bearbeitet um 07/07/2009, 14:26:48 PM durch Illstudio |
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I have 1 flash on a tripod working. My other Nikon Sb-24 seems to have died.
This post and pic explains what I was trying to do.
I had some luck with shooting in overcast and tree shadows with the flash but not with the above setup. Any ideas? What mode setting do you set your 510 for?
Thanks
Steve
Caddy at High Noon « AmyVettes Blog |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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Nachricht bearbeitet um 07/11/2009, 13:41:21 PM durch Neddog |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Illstudio: |
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zitierte Meldung: I have 1 flash on a tripod working. My other Nikon Sb-24 seems to have died.
This post and pic explains what I was trying to do.
I had some luck with shooting in overcast and tree shadows with the flash but not with the above setup. Any ideas? What mode setting do you set your 510 for?
Thanks
Steve
Caddy at High Noon « AmyVettes Blog |
Hmmm... that looks really tricky, Steve! It looks like you're properly exposed for the car, but the model with the flash is overexposed. I don't think you'd be able to combat the harsh sunlight like this unless you have enough lighting to fill both subjects (model and car). Might be time to invest in some more powerful monolights and a power inverter to run off a 12V battery (enough speedlights to cover that large an area would be killer on your budget).
Other than that, you could wait for a cloudy day or else build a frame which can hold a large white sheet or two, and find a way to hold that over your model and car. Or even try tying the four corners of your sheets to the nearby trees, to provide you some shading.
As for my E-510 settings, I normally use centerweighted or spot metering so I can pick my subject to properly expose, and I use a reference white balance ("One-touch WB" in Oly speak), usually getting my model to hold a white card while i shoot it with all strobes on for my reference. Also, if you're shooting JPGs turn the contrast down to -1. That'll soften the highlights and help prevent them from getting blown out, at a small cost of compressed dynamic range.
It also helps to use back-button focus to seperate your Exposure Lock and your Auto-Focus. That way, you can pick your subject to expose by using the half-press of the shutter, and you can pick your subject to focus by using the back-button, which will really help you to lock in the right exposure and focus where you want it, not where the camera thinks you want it. The best way I've found to do this is to go to Wrench Menu 1 and set AEL/AFL to MF Mode 3 (you might also want to switch S-AF to Mode 3 as well), then set your camera to the MF-only mode. That will give you full manual focus and will lock away Auto-Focus into your AEL/AFL button, leaving your shutter only for Exposure lock and actually firing the shutter. Depending on the size of your hands, you may also want to switch AEL with Fn, so that function moves to the Fn. button instead, which is closer in for shorter thumbs, but further out for longer thumbs. |
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Olympus E-3, Olympus E-510, Olympus E-P1 Pen, Zuiko 50-200mm...
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Nachricht geschrieben um 07/15/2009, 11:04:29 AM durch Illstudio |
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Thanks so much, Neddog!
I recently received the Canon Speedlite 430EX and tried my Canon XSi. The flash triggers worked on both the Canon and Olympus flashes! I was able to move the transmitter from one to the other camera w/no problems.
The only problem I had was getting exposures correct. One pic that seemed fine would be over exposed the next shot. (???) I guess I dont get the hang of the manual settings yet on the flash. |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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Nachricht geschrieben um 07/18/2009, 04:13:12 AM durch Neddog |
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You're shooting outdoors primarily, right? Don't worry about the occassional overexposed or underexposed shot... That's often because something comes by to throw off your metering (could be a cloud moving or anything), or perhaps one of the flashes didn't go off because the sun got in the way of the optical sensor, or maybe you just shot too early and missed the recycle time. Anything can happen out there... lol. As long as the majority of your shots are consistent, you're fine. |
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Olympus E-3, Olympus E-510, Olympus E-P1 Pen, Zuiko 50-200mm...
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 26 | Gesamtverkäufe: 5
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Nachricht geschrieben um 07/24/2009, 18:30:44 PM durch Illstudio |
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| Ursprünglich geschrieben von Neddog: |
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| zitierte Meldung: You're shooting outdoors primarily, right? Don't worry about the occassional overexposed or underexposed shot... That's often because something comes by to throw off your metering (could be a cloud moving or anything), or perhaps one of the flashes didn't go off because the sun got in the way of the optical sensor, or maybe you just shot too early and missed the recycle time. Anything can happen out there... lol. As long as the majority of your shots are consistent, you're fine. |
Thanks!
Made my first sale 35 cents! Now--where will I spend it!? |
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Nikon F3, Nikonons V, Olympus EVolt 520, Canon Rebel XSi
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Hochgeladene Bilder: 49 | Gesamtverkäufe: 21
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